Introduction: cloths of gold in Early Renaissance Italy
Throughout the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, Islamic and Asian luxury textiles, often woven with gold thread, were imported to Italy. These so-called ‘cloths of gold’ often patterned with animals and foliage, were so highly valued in the peninsula that they were mostly worn by important members of the clergy. Such ‘divine’ wealth and splendour was reserved to important spiritual leaders.
Few of such dalmatics (vestments worn by deacons and bishops) survive until today. Although assembled in Germany, this example is representative of how central Asian silks were used in Italy. It is made of a beautiful Iranian cloth woven with ibexes, pelicans, flowers and foliage.
It is therefore no surprise that early Renaissance Italian artists came to dress their most important divine figures in these rich textiles. However this presented the challenge of painting gold thread. From mordant gilding inheirited from Byzantine painters, to Simone Martini's sgraffito, and the illusionistic use of oil paint, this exhibition will travel from the fourteenth to the fifteenth century to highlight the various solutions found to face this technical struggle.
This exhibition will show how painting cloths of gold became an important site of techniqual innovation in Renaissance Italian painting. Examining technique, whether in painting or weaving, requires looking at the material extremely closely. In this sense, the possibility of enlarging small details that this online format allows appears most suited to this purpose.
At the end of every display, an object will be specifically highlighted in a reader such as the one just below. Use your mouse to explore the image and zoom in on part you would like to see in greater detail